Of all the ways this vast tapestry of a nation has been described, the most repeated cliche is the melting pot. But as a baker, I like to think of the United States as another culinary metaphor: the mixing bowl.

Truly, is there a more delightful and delicious lens through which to view American history, ingenuity and diversity than the humble cookie?

Pore over cookbooks, baking blogs, magazines and any other source you can think of, and you may begin to wonder whether there are as many American cookie recipes as there are Americans. At least that’s how I felt while compiling our 15th annual Washington Post Food section cookie issue. It was both a pleasure and a challenge to settle on these 14 recipes, which hail from the sunny coast of California, the skyscraper maze of Manhattan and everywhere in between.

Cookies are not unique to our country. But there is something special about them here. “I think our cookies differ largely in that they’re driven by home cooks,” rather than professional pastry chefs, says Stella Parks, a contributor at Serious Eats and the author of “BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts.” Part of the reason you see such a wide array of cookies is the wide array of circumstances to which home cooks, particularly women, have had to adapt, whether that means being thrifty, working around a scarcity of ingredients or attempting to make do with whatever was readily available in a particular region.

“Cookies can be assembled from whatever you’ve got,” says Anne Byrn, author of the superbly comprehensive “American Cookie.” “They are not fussy or fancy, and that’s why their recipes have lasted for generations.”

Access to certain ingredients, whether limited by geography, war-induced scarcity or poverty, shaped the American cookie experience. The North-South divide is multifaceted, but in terms of baking, Parks says it can mean the difference between pecans and walnuts. An ideal growing climate in California means fruit (dates, raisins) is common in West Coast recipes. In the South, Byrn says, bakers who had access to nothing other than rice flour were baking gluten-free long before it was trendy. The introduction of chemical leaveners – baking soda and powder – helped move us away from the crisp style of a Dutch tea cookie. Mass-produced pantry staples, such as chocolate chips, peanut butter, shortening, butter and rolled oats, ingrained themselves in baking culture as well.

Some regional cookie variety can be traced to immigrant groups: Think Scandinavian populations in the Midwest and Jewish and Dutch populations in New York and the Northeast. Traces of Spanish and Mexican cultures live on in the Southwest. The South was heavily influenced by enslaved Africans and their African American descendants. French Catholics were among the big players in New Orleans, while Germans and Latinos made their mark in Texas. Likewise, the West Coast, California in particular, is a microcosm of the greater American hodgepodge, with large Chinese and Japanese populations.

Such localized identities are easy to miss and, increasingly, harder to preserve. We are a nation of movers, carrying our traditions and recipes far from their origins. Thanks to wide dissemination on food labels, newspapers, magazines and, now, the internet and social media, which cookies hail from where seems less clear and even less relevant. Many cookies and other baked traditions started out tied to religious sects or celebrations, and the connection between sacred and sweet, too, has largely faded from modern culture.

Still, if there is a tenuous thread between tradition and today, it’s the holiday season. “The holidays preserve what the everyday loses,” Byrn says.

So pull out your grandma’s community cookbook, your three-ring binder of recipes (not just me, right?), the index cards your mom dutifully wrote out. They may be dog-eared and crusty with flour, but they are your history – our history – no matter where you’ve come from and no matter where you’re going.

Now come along with me for this great American cookie tour.

BALTIMORE BERGER COOKIES 

Active: 1 hour 10 minutes | Total: 1 hour 40 minutes

Makes 24 cookies

Baltimore lays claim to these delicious, decadent chocolate-frosted cookies, where the layer of chocolate is about as thick as the cookie itself. Easy to make (and even easier to eat), these cookies go perfectly with a glass of cold milk. The cookie is named for Henry Berger,  who came up with the cookie after he opened a bakery in East Baltimore in 1835. — by Olga Massov

Recipe note: The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Ingredients:

FOR THE COOKIES

2 cups (225 grams) cake flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter

3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated sugar

1 large egg white

1 1/2 tablespoons heavy cream

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

FOR THE FROSTING

3 cups (510 grams) milk chocolate chips

1 1/4 cups (300 milliliters) heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 2/3 cups (140 grams) Dutch-process cocoa powder

1 1/4 cups (140 grams) confectioners’ sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Steps:

Make the cookies: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with the rack in the middle. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes.

Add the egg white, cream and vanilla and beat until combined. Reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture in 3 additions until incorporated, scraping down the bowl as needed.

Working with 1 heaping tablespoon of dough at a time, roll into balls and space 2 inches apart, with a maximum of 12 per sheet. Using your moistened fingers, press on the dough balls to form disks about 1/4 inch thick and 2 inches wide. Bake, 1 sheet at a time, until the cookies are just beginning to brown around the edges, 8 to 12 minutes, rotating the sheet halfway through baking. Let the cookies cool completely on the sheet before frosting.

Make the frosting: Once the cookies have cooled, in a large bowl, combine the chocolate chips, cream and salt. Microwave the mixture at 50% power, stirring every 30 seconds, until melted and smooth, 1 to 3 minutes. Whisk the cocoa, confectioners’ sugar and vanilla into the chocolate mixture until smooth. (The frosting should be the texture of thick brownie batter and register about 95 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.)

Frost the cookies: Flip the cookies on the sheets. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of frosting over the flat side of each cookie to form a mound. Let the cookies sit at room temperature until the frosting is set, about 3 hours, before serving.

Nutrition | Calories: 280; Total Fat: 16 g; Saturated Fat: 10 g; Cholesterol: 30 mg; Sodium: 100 mg; Carbohydrates: 38 g; Dietary Fiber: 2 g; Sugars: 20 g; Protein: 4 g.

(Adapted from Cook’s Country.)

BENNE SEED CRISPS

Active: 25 minutes | Total: 45 minutes

Makes 48 cookies

Benne seed wafers are the signature cookie of Charleston, South Carolina. We loved this rendition from food writer and culinary historian John Martin Taylor, via his friend Virginia Willis. The crisps are sweet, rich and gorgeously lacy.

Recipe note: The baked cookies can be stored in an airtight container for one week or frozen for several months.

Ingredients:

1/2 cup (75 grams) white sesame seeds

1/3 cup (42 grams) all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature

3/4 cup (165 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Steps:

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees with the rack in the middle. Line 2 large, rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats. Scatter the sesame seeds on one of the baking sheets and bake until lightly toasted, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool and then transfer the seeds to a small bowl.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using a handheld mixer, beat together the butter and brown sugar on medium-high until it’s the consistency of wet sand, about 2 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium and beat in the egg and vanilla until combined. Using a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, add the flour mixture, and then fold in the cooled toasted sesame seeds.

Drop level teaspoons of the dough onto the prepared baking sheets, spacing the cookies about 2 inches apart. (Allowing space is important, as the cookies will spread.)

Bake for 7 to 8 minutes total, until the tops of the cookies bubble and the edges turn deep brown, rotating the baking sheets once during baking. Transfer the baking sheets to a wire rack to cool slightly, then use an offset spatula to transfer the cookies to the rack to cool completely. (If you leave the cookies on the baking sheet to cool completely, they will be more crisp; if you remove them immediately, they will be slightly softer.) Repeat with the remaining dough. Serve, or store in an airtight container.

Nutrition | Calories: 25; Total Fat: 1 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 5 mg; Sodium: 35 mg; Carbohydrates: 4 g; Dietary Fiber: 0 g; Sugars: 3 g; Protein: 0 g.

(Adapted from “Secrets of the Southern Table” by Virginia Willis. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2018.)

BILLY GOATS

Active: 30 minutes | Total: 55 minutes

Makes 50 cookies

California is a land of plenty when it comes to fruit, especially dates. Many West Coast regional cookbooks have recipes for these thick, soft date-and-nut cookies. In other parts of the country, they used to be called “rocks,” because of their shape, not their texture.

Recipe notes: If you want to make these nut-free, replace the walnuts with more dates or another dried fruit of your choice.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for several months.

Ingredients:

1/2 cup (105 grams) vegetable shortening

1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/4 cup (61 grams) sour cream

2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon ground allspice

2 cups (240 grams) chopped walnuts

2 cups (311 grams) finely chopped pitted dates

Steps:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees with a rack in the middle position. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a handheld mixer and a large bowl, beat together the shortening and sugar on medium-high speed until combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat again on medium-high until smooth and blended, scrape down the bowl, then beat in the sour cream.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cloves and allspice. Add to the shortening mixture and beat on low speed until combined. Stir in the nuts and dates.

Drop heaping teaspoons of the dough about 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets. Bake, 1 sheet at a time, for about 12 minutes, until the cookies are delicately browned around the edges. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely before serving or storing.

Nutrition | Calories: 110; Total Fat: 6 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 10 mg; Sodium: 45 mg; Carbohydrates: 13 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugars: 8 g; Protein: 2 g.

(Adapted from “The Fannie Farmer Baking Book,” by Marion Cunningham. Gramercy, 1996.)

BISCOCHITOS

Active: 50 minutes | Total: 1 hours 10 minutes, plus 1 hour chilling

Makes 60 to 72 cookies

Spiced cookies are a popular holiday treat all over the world, but we’re a fan of this one you’ll find in the American Southwest. The biscochito is New Mexico’s official state cookie, although the not-too-sweet, anise-flavored treat hails from Mexico. Lard creates an especially crisp and light texture, but vegetable shortening can be used instead.

Recipe notes: You’ll need one or two 2-inch cookie cutters, preferably stars and half-moons. And you may get an even greater yield depending on which shapes you use.

The dough needs to be refrigerated for at least 1 hour, and up to 1 day. The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week, or frozen for up to 1 month. You may have cinnamon sugar left over; it’s not tough to find ways to use that up.

Ingredients:

1 1/4 cups (256 grams) lard, at room temperature (may substitute vegetable shortening)

1 3/4 cups (350 grams) granulated sugar

1 large egg

2 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur such as Grand Marnier or Triple Sec

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Finely grated zest of 1 navel orange

3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

2 to 4 tablespoons water

2 teaspoons anise seed

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Steps:

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using a handheld mixer, combine the lard and 1 cup sugar. Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the egg, liqueur, vanilla extract and zest, and beat on medium speed until well incorporated. Stop the mixer to scrape down the bowl.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt and baking powder until aerated and combined. With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the flour mixture to the bowl, then just enough of the water to form a dough. Add the anise seed and mix on low just until distributed.

Divide the dough into two equal 1-inch-thick disks. Wrap each in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, and up to 1 day.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Line a few baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.

Lightly flour a work surface. Unwrap one dough disk and roll it out to a thickness of 1/4 inch. Using cookie cutters, cut out shapes, transferring the cookies to the baking sheets and spacing them about 1 inch apart. If the dough is still fairly chilled/firm, it can be rerolled a few times; otherwise, gather together the scraps and refrigerate for 15 minutes before rerolling.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 3/4 cup (150 grams) sugar and the cinnamon. Sprinkle some of the cinnamon sugar over each cookie cutout.

Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until just set and lightly golden, rotating the sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely before serving or storing. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Nutrition (based on 72 cookies) | Calories: 70; Total Fat: 4 g; Saturated Fat: 2 g; Cholesterol: 5 mg; Sodium: 10 mg; Carbohydrates: 8 g; Dietary Fiber: 0 g; Sugars: 4 g; Protein: 0 g.

(From the December 2001 issue of Martha Stewart Living.)

BOILED PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES

Total: 25 minutes

Makes 32 cookies

Who doesn’t love a no-bake treat? This quick and easy recipe, cooked on the stove top, is more like a confection than a cookie. But Southern food authority Edna Lewis called these chewy, nutty treats one of her very favorite childhood cookies, which is good enough for us.

Recipes notes: These are gluten-free as long as you buy oats marked as such.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week or frozen for several months.

Ingredients

3 cups (255 grams) quick-cooking oats

1/2 cup (125 grams) crunchy peanut butter

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter

1/2 cup (120 milliliters) whole milk

2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar

1/2 cup (50 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Steps:

In a large bowl, stir together the oats, peanut butter and vanilla until combined.

In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, heat the butter and milk, stirring a few times, until the butter is melted. Whisk in the sugar, cocoa and salt until the mixture is smooth. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook for 1 1/2 minutes, stirring often to prevent scorching. Stir in the oat mixture and continue cooking for 1 minute longer, stirring constantly.

Drop the cooked mixture by tablespoonfuls onto wax paper or aluminum foil. Let the cookies cool and become firm. Serve at room temperature.

Nutrition | Calories: 140; Total Fat: 6 g; Saturated Fat: 3 g; Cholesterol: 10 mg; Sodium: 35 mg; Carbohydrates: 20 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugars: 13 g; Protein: 3 g.

(Adapted from “The Gift of Southern Cooking” by Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock. Knopf, 2003.)

BUCKEYE BARS

Total: 20 minutes, plus chilling time

Makes 18 bars (one 8-inch slab)

Buckeyes are one of the signature confections of the Midwest. The little balls of peanut butter filling, coated in chocolate save for a small circle at the top, pay homage to the native buckeye nuts of Ohio. They’re time-consuming to make, so this bar version cut into small fingers is just as satisfying without all the work. If it reminds you of a whole pan of peanut butter cups, you would not be wrong.

Recipe notes: To make a nut-free version, replace the peanut butter with Biscoff cookie butter and reduce the confectioners’ sugar to 1 cup.

This recipe can easily be doubled for a 9-by-13-inch pan.

The bars can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week or frozen for several months. (In case you’re wondering, they’re delicious straight from the freezer.)

Ingredients:

FOR THE PEANUT BUTTER LAYER

1 3/4 cups (215 grams) very finely ground graham cracker crumbs (from 14 rectangles, crushed in a plastic bag with a rolling pin or in a food processor)

1 1/2 cups (160 grams) confectioners’ sugar

10 tablespoons (1 stick plus 2 tablespoons/140 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

3/4 cup (192 grams) creamy peanut butter, such as Skippy or Jif brand

2 ounces (57 grams) full-fat cream cheese, at room temperature

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

FOR THE CHOCOLATE LAYER

3/4 cup (125 grams) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips

1 tablespoon creamy peanut butter

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for sprinkling (optional)

Spray an 8-inch square baking pan with nonstick cooking spray and line it with parchment paper, leaving enough overhang on the sides to form a sling that you can use to lift the slab out later.

Make the peanut butter layer: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a large bowl and a handheld mixer, combine the graham cracker crumbs, confectioners’ sugar, melted butter, peanut butter, cream cheese, vanilla and salt on medium-low speed until well blended. Pat evenly into the prepared pan. Refrigerate until lightly set and cool to the touch, about 20 minutes.

Make the chocolate layer: In a medium, microwave-safe bowl, combine the chocolate chips and peanut butter. Microwave on high in 30-second bursts, stirring well after each interval, until the mixture is melted and smooth. Let cool slightly, then spread evenly over the peanut butter layer. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt, if desired.

Refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour. Using the parchment handles, transfer the slab from the pan to a cutting board, and cut into fingers.

Nutrition | Calories: 240; Total Fat: 16 g; Saturated Fat: 7 g; Cholesterol: 20 mg; Sodium: 170 mg; Carbohydrates: 24 g; Dietary Fiber: 2 g; Sugars: 15 g; Protein: 4 g.

(Adapted from “Midwest Made: Big, Bold Baking from the Heartland” by Shauna Sever. Running Press, 2019.)

BUTTER BRICKLE COOKIES

Active: 30 minutes | Total: 50 minutes

Makes 48 cookies

Butter brickle ice cream is a Midwest classic. Much like many culinary legends, the origins are somewhat disputed, although the legend goes that it was created at an Omaha, Nebraska hotel in the 1920s. These buttery cookies take their inspiration from the ice cream and are studded with crunchy toffee bits.

Recipe note: The baked cookies can be stored in an airtight container for 3 days or frozen for several months.

Ingredients

2 1/4 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup (165 grams) light brown sugar

1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 large eggs

One 8-ounce (225-gram) package Heath Bits ‘O Brickle Toffee Bits

Steps:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with the rack in the middle. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt.

In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a handheld mixer, beat the butter on medium-high until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the sugars and vanilla, and beat on medium-high until fluffy and thoroughly combined. Add in the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Gradually add in the flour mixture, beating on low until incorporated. Fold in the toffee bits.

Drop by rounded teaspoons onto the prepared sheets. Bake 1 sheet at a time for 9 to 11 minutes, or until slightly brown. Let the cookies cool for a few minutes on the sheets, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Serve, or store in an airtight container.

Nutrition | Calories: 90; Total Fat: 4 g; Saturated Fat: 2 g; Cholesterol: 15 mg; Sodium: 65 mg; Carbohydrates: 14 g; Dietary Fiber: 0 g; Sugars: 10 g; Protein: 0 g.

(Adapted from a recipe on anaffairfromtheheart.com.)

CHERRY-PECAN RUGELACH

Active: 1 hour 10 minutes | Total: 3 hours 10 minutes, plus chilling time

Makes 48 rugelach

These crescent-shaped cookies are a staple of delicatessens and other bakeries in New York and across the country, and they are beloved in the American baking repertoire. The simple, pliable dough comes together in a flash, and most of the time making these cookies is spent chilling the dough and the shaped cookies. — by Olga Massov

Recipe notes: This recipe is ripe for adaptation and can work with your choice of dried fruit and/or chocolate. We tested a variation we particularly liked: apricot-pistachio rugelach with cardamom. Instead of cherries and pecans, substitute equal amounts of dried apricots and raw, unsalted pistachios, and swap in cardamom for the cinnamon and apricot jam for the raspberry.

If you want to make these cookies without nuts, just double the amount of dried fruit, to make up for the bulk.

The dough, fruit-and-nut filling and cinnamon sugar can be made up to 3 days ahead. Keep the dough tightly wrapped and refrigerated.

After the rugelach are rolled, they can be frozen on a baking sheet. Once hard, consolidate them into plastic zip-top bags. They can then be baked right from the freezer. You may need to increase the baking time a bit.

Store the baked rugelach in an airtight container, at room temperature, for up to 3 days. To refresh, place the rugelach on a baking sheet and reheat at 300 degrees until warm.

Ingredients:

FOR THE DOUGH

16 tablespoons (2 sticks/226 grams) cold unsalted butter, each cut into 4 pieces

8 ounces (227 grams) cold cream cheese, cut into 10 pieces

2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for your work surface

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 large egg

1 teaspoon water

Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling

FOR THE FILLING

1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 cup (70 grams) finely chopped pecans

1/2 cup (70 grams) finely chopped dried cherries

Generous 1/2 cup (175 grams) raspberry jam (with or without seeds)

Steps:

Make the dough: Place the butter and cream cheese on the counter and let them soften for about 10 minutes; you want them still cold. Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade, and scatter over the chunks of butter and cream cheese. Pulse the processor 5 to 10 times, until the mixture looks shaggy. Then process the dough, pausing the motor to scrape down sides of the bowl often, just until the dough forms large curds. Don’t overwork it to the point where it forms a ball on the blade.

Turn the dough out, gather it into a 5-by-3-inch brick, and divide it into four equal pieces. Shape each piece into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate the dough until chilled, at least 2 hours and up to overnight. You can also freeze the dough, tightly wrapped in two layers of plastic wrap, for up to 3 months.

Make the filling: While the dough chills, in a medium bowl, whisk together the sugar and cinnamon until combined. In another medium bowl, stir together the chopped nuts and dried fruit. In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the jam until it’s loose and liquid.

Make the rugelach: Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, working quickly with one disk at a time, roll each disk out to a 12-inch circle; it’s okay if the circle isn’t perfect. (If you start feeling the dough getting sticky and too warm, dust it with a whisper of flour.) Using a pastry brush, coat the dough with a thin layer of jam, then sprinkle with about 1 tablespoon cinnamon sugar, and follow with a quarter of the nut-and-fruit mixture. Take a large piece of wax paper and gently press it over the filling so it better adheres to the dough. Then, using a pizza wheel, cut the dough into 12 wedges: Begin by cutting the dough into quarters and then cut each quarter into thirds. Set the wax paper aside for the following dough disks. Roll each piece of dough into a crescent from the wide end to the tip. Transfer to a baking sheet, making sure the tip of each crescent is under the cookie. Transfer the baking sheet to the refrigerator and chill for at least 30 minutes. Repeat with one more dough disk.

While the rugelach are chilling, preheat the oven to 350 degrees with the racks positioned in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg with 1 teaspoon water until combined.

Brush each crescent with the egg wash and sprinkle with turbinado sugar.

Bake the cookies for 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the sheets from top to bottom and front to back at the midway point, until they are puffed and golden. Transfer the rugelach to wire racks and let cool to warm or room temperature before serving. Repeat with the remaining two dough disks.

Nutrition | Calories: 100; Total Fat: 7 g; Saturated Fat: 4 g; Cholesterol: 20 mg; Sodium: 30 mg; Carbohydrates: 9 g; Dietary Fiber: 0 g; Sugars: 5 g; Protein: 1 g.

(Adapted from pastry chef Alex Levin and cookbook author Dorie Greenspan.)

CLASSIC CHOCOLATE WHOOPIE PIES

Active: 1 hour 5 minutes |Total: 1 hour 30 minutes

Makes 16 whoopie pies

Whoopie pies are not so much a cookie as a cake-and-frosting sandwich, but they qualify in spirit. They are a treat closely associated with New England and Maine, in particular. They also have ties to Amish country. This version consists of two saucer-shaped rounds of chocolate cake around a marshmallowy cream filling.

Recipe notes: We preferred the smaller pies described here, but if you want a really decadent treat, you can use 1/4-cup scoops of dough to create the cakes. The yield will be 8 large sandwiches.

The cakes and filling can be made 1 day in advance and stored at room temperature in airtight containers. The cakes can be somewhat sticky, so store them in a single layer without touching. The assembled whoopie pies can be stored individually wrapped at room temperature for 1 day.

Marshmallow Fluff is a New England ingredient available in certain other parts of the country. Marshmallow creme, more widely available, is a thinner consistency than Fluff. If you make your filling with marshmallow creme, you may need to add a bit more sugar to stiffen it up sufficiently.

Ingredients:

FOR THE CAKES

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature (at least 65 degrees)

1 cup (213 grams) light or dark brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon espresso powder (optional)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 large egg, at room temperature

1/2 cup (43 grams) Dutch-process cocoa powder

2 cups (283 grams) all-purpose flour

1 cup (240 milliliters) milk, at room temperature

FOR THE FILLING

1 cup (177 grams) vegetable shortening

1 cup (113 grams) confectioners’ sugar

1 1/3 cups (167 grams) Marshmallow Fluff or marshmallow creme

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Steps:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with the rack in the middle. Lightly grease (or line with parchment) two large, rimmed baking sheets.

Make the cakes: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, or using a hand mixer and a large bowl, beat together the butter, brown sugar, espresso powder (if using), baking powder, baking soda, salt and vanilla on medium-high until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the egg and beat again until smooth. Add the cocoa and mix on low to combine.

Gradually add the flour to the batter, alternating it with the milk, beating on low until smooth. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, and beat again on low briefly to soften and combine any chunky scrapings.

Drop the dough in 2-tablespoon portions onto the prepared baking sheets (16 per sheet), leaving plenty of room between the cakes; they’ll spread. (A No. 30 disher works well here.)

Bake the cakes for 11 to 12 minutes, until they’re set and firm to the touch. Remove from the oven and cool on the pans. While still lukewarm, use a spatula to separate them from the pan or parchment; then let cool completely.

Make the filling: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using a hand mixer, beat together the shortening, confectioners’ sugar and Marshmallow Fluff until well combined. Start on low to avoid a cloud of sugar, then increase to medium.

Add the prepared salt water to the marshmallow mixture, beating on low. Add the vanilla and beat until smooth.

Spread the flat side of half the cakes with the filling. Top with the remaining cakes, flat side toward the filling. Keep wrapped individually in plastic wrap until ready to serve.

Nutrition | Calories: 340; Total Fat: 18 g; Saturated Fat: 7 g; Cholesterol: 30 mg; Sodium: 125 mg; Carbohydrates: 43 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugars: 25 g; Protein: 3 g.

(Adapted from a King Arthur Flour recipe.)

CREOLE PECAN PRALINE BARS

Active: 30 minutes | Total: 1 hour 55 minutes

Makes 32 (or more) bars

Anyone who has been to New Orleans is probably familiar with the praline, a sweet, buttery confection studded with pecans. In this very old recipe from the Big Easy, it’s been merged with a crisp brown shortbread crust, for something that may remind you of pecan pie. The thin bars with their carefully arranged nuts are just as nice to look at as eat.

Recipe note: The baked bars can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days or frozen for several months. Separate the layers with wax paper.

Ingredients:

FOR THE BASE

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup (220 grams) packed light brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour

2 1/2 cups (255 grams/9 ounces) large pecan halves

FOR THE TOPPING

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks/170 grams) unsalted butter

1/3 cup (75 grams) packed light brown sugar

Steps:

Make the base: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the middle. Line a 9-by-13-inch pan (with at least 2-inch sides) with a piece of foil large enough to cover the bottom and sides. Press in the foil so it’s as smooth as possible. Do not butter it.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using a handheld mixer, beat the butter on medium-high until smooth. Add the sugar and salt and beat until thoroughly combined. Add the flour and mix on low until the ingredients form tiny crumbs that will hold together when you press the mixture between your fingers, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn the mixture into the prepared pan and spread to form a level layer, pressing down to compact it.

Cover the base with the pecan halves touching each other, flat sides down, all in the same direction.

Make the topping: In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, heat the butter and sugar, stirring with a spatula, until the mixture comes to a hard boil all over the surface. Continue to stir for 30 more seconds, then remove the pan from the heat and pour the hot mixture over the pecans, trying to coat the entire surface.

Bake for 22 minutes, until the butter and sugar caramelize and start to solidify around the nuts. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Cover the pan with a baking sheet and invert the slab onto the sheet, removing the pan and then the foil. Re-invert the slab onto a cutting board and cut it into 32 or more thin strips. (Small squares are nice, too.) Let the bars to come to room temperature before serving.

Nutrition | Calories: 180; Total Fat: 13 g; Saturated Fat: 5 g; Cholesterol: 20 mg; Sodium: 10 mg; Carbohydrates: 15 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugars: 8 g; Protein: 2 g.

(Adapted from “Maida Heatter’s Brand-New Book of Great Cookies” by Maida Heatter. Random House, 1995.)

FORGOTTEN CHOCOLATE COOKIES

Active: 50 minutes | Total: 1 hour 15 minutes

Makes 30 cookies

These crunchy on the outside, chewy on the inside treats are exactly of the opposite of their name: Unforgettable. The name comes from an old method – popular in Jewish bakeries such as Gottlieb’s Bakery in Savannah, Georgia, but not used here – of letting meringues cool in a turned-off oven after baking. If you’ve never made meringues, there’s no need to be intimidated. All the ingredients are simply mixed together and scooped onto a baking sheet.

Recipe notes: As written, the recipe is gluten-free, with cornstarch as a binder. You can also more closely follow the Gottlieb’s model by substituting 2 tablespoons of flour. To make these cookies kosher for Passover, you can use potato starch in place of cornstarch.

We do not recommend leaving out the nuts, as they are key to providing bulk to the dough.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week at room temperature or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Ingredients:

2 3/4 cups (275 grams) confectioners’ sugar

Generous 1/2 cup (42 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-processed)

1 tablespoon cornstarch

Pinch kosher salt

3 large egg whites

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups (234 grams) finely chopped pecans or walnuts

Steps:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with the rack in the middle. Line 2 large, rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

Place the confectioners’ sugar, cocoa, cornstarch and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer. Beat on low speed just to combine the dry ingredients. Add the egg whites and beat on low speed to incorporate the whites, then increase the speed to high and beat until thoroughly combined, about 1 minute. Stir in the vanilla and pecans or walnuts.

Scoop or drop heaping tablespoons of dough onto the baking sheets (about 15 per sheet). Bake one sheet at a time, 12 to 15 minutes, until the cookies are shiny and firm on the outside but still a little soft on the inside. (Smaller cookies will bake faster.) Remove the sheet from the oven and let the cookies rest for 2 minutes on the pan. Using a metal spatula, transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool. Repeat with the other baking sheet.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

Nutrition | Calories: 100; Total Fat: 6 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Carbohydrates: 11 g; Dietary Fiber: 1 g; Sugars: 9 g; Protein: 1 g.

(Adapted from “American Cookie” by Anne Byrn. Rodale Books, 2018.)

FORTUNE COOKIES

Active: 50 minutes | Total: 1 hour 20 minutes

Makes 19 cookies

If you’re used to the mediocre, sometimes stale fortune cookies that come out of a crinkly package, prepare to be blown away. Here you can expect a crunchy treat with a sweet flavor accented by the addition of strong tea. Fortune cookies came to the United States via Japanese immigrants who settled around San Francisco and Los Angeles and then served them in chop suey houses, according to Jennifer 8. Lee in her book “The Fortune Cookie Chronicles.” Chinese immigrants soon followed suit.

Making the cookies requires a bit of practice and quick fingers, but it’s a fun project. Take care, as the cookies must be shaped when hot.

Recipe note: The baked cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for 2 weeks or frozen for several months.

Ingredients:

3 large egg whites

2/3 cup (133 grams) granulated sugar

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter, melted

2 tablespoons strong brewed tea

1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour

Steps:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the middle. Lightly grease a large, rimmed baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray.

Prepare the fortunes, fold and set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine the egg whites, sugar, salt and vanilla. Stir in the melted butter and tea. Mix well. Add the flour and stir until the batter is smooth. Chill the batter in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

For each cookie, place a rounded tablespoon of batter on the greased baking sheet. With the back of a spoon, spread out the batter to form a thin circle about 3 inches in diameter. Bake no more than 2 to 3 cookies at one time, because they must be folded before they begin to cool and harden. (If possible, use 3 baking sheets: While one sheet is in the oven, the second sheet is being prepared and the third is cooling.)

Bake for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the edges of the cookies are brown. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and carefully remove one cookie with a spatula. Lay the cookie flat on a clean plate and place a fortune on top. Working quickly, fold the cookie in half to form a semicircle and enclose the fortune. Lay the semicircle across the rim of a glass and press the folded edge against the glass, half inside and half outside. The curved edge should be left to flare out, to give the cookie its characteristic “nurse’s cap” shape. Set the completed cookie in the well of a muffin tin to hold its shape while it cools. Repeat with the remaining cookies.

Nutrition | Calories: 90; Total Fat: 5 g; Saturated Fat: 4 g; Cholesterol: 15 mg; Sodium: 25 mg; Carbohydrates: 12 g; Dietary Fiber: 0 g; Sugars: 7 g; Protein: 1 g.

(From a 1986 Washington Post recipe.)

JOE FROGGER COOKIES

Active: 45 minutes | Total: 1 hour 5 minutes, plus an overnight chill

Makes 24 to 30 large cookies

Big, chewy molasses cookies are homey and satisfying. This particular egg-free version was first served in a Marblehead, Massachusetts, tavern run by freeman Joe Brown, says Albert Lukas, supervising chef at the National Museum of African American History and Culture’s Sweet Home Cafe, where visitors can buy them today. As to the name? The story goes that Brown’s wife made the cookies as big as the lily pads that frogs sat on in a pond outside the restaurant.

Recipe notes: You’ll need a 3-inch round cookie cutter.

The dough is quite soft and needs to be refrigerated at least overnight and up to 1 day. The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Ingredients:

1 cup (340 grams) unsulfured molasses

1/3 cup (80 milliliters) water

2 1/2 tablespoons dark rum

3 1/2 cups (438 grams) all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt

Generous 1 1/4 teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

Generous 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) salted butter, at room temperature

1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar, plus more for rolling

Steps:

In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the molasses, water and rum and bring to a lively simmer. Cook for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and let cool completely.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, ginger, baking soda, cloves, allspice and nutmeg until aerated and combined.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using a handheld mixer and a large bowl, combine the butter and cup of sugar, and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes. Stop the mixer to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl.

Add the cooled molasses mixture and beat on low speed until well incorporated. Stop to scrape down the bowl.

On low speed, gradually add the flour mixture, beating just long enough to form a homogeneous dough. Cover and refrigerate overnight (at least 8 hours) and up to 1 day.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees with the rack in the middle. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper, and line your work surface with more paper. Sprinkle a generous amount of sugar over it.

Working with half the dough at a time (leaving the rest in the refrigerator), roll it out on the sugared surface to a thickness of 1/4 inch. Cut out about 12 cookies, re-rolling the scraps as needed. Using a wide, thin spatula, transfer the cookies to the baking sheets, spacing the cookies at least 1 inch apart. Sprinkle the tops with more sugar. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Bake one sheet at a time for 10 minutes, or just until the cookies are set yet still seem soft in the center, rotating the baking sheet from front to back halfway through. Let cool on the sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely before serving or storing.

Nutrition (based on 30 cookies) | Calories: 140; Total Fat: 3 g; Saturated Fat: 2 g; Cholesterol: 10 mg; Sodium: 380 mg; Carbohydrates: 26 g; Dietary Fiber: 0 g; Sugars: 15 g; Protein: 2 g.

(Adapted from a recipe developed by Albert Lukas, supervising chef at the Sweet Home Cafe in the National Museum of African American History and Culture.)

SUPER-THICK CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

Active: 40 minutes | Total: 1 hour 25 minutes, plus 12 hours chilling

32 (makes eight 6-ounce cookies)

This style of ultra-thick chocolate chip cookie, popularized by the New York bakery Levain, requires a dough with less sugar than flour and more chocolate chips than sugar. These ratios keep the cookies thick, not caky, with a flavor defined by the chocolate, so be sure to use the best-quality chips you can find.

Part of the novelty of the cookies is their enormous size. They are eye-catching, for sure, but we recommend splitting them with a friend (or three). For nutritional purposes, that means we’re assuming one person is eating a quarter of a cookie.

Recipe notes: Cookbook author Stella Parks does not recommend leaving the nuts out of this recipe, as they help provide non-melting bulk to the cookies.

The portioned cookie dough can be wrapped tightly in plastic and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Alternatively, the portions can be individually wrapped, then placed in a freezer-safe zip-top bag and frozen for up to 6 months. Thaw frozen dough to 40 degrees, unwrap and bake as directed. These cookies taste best when freshly baked, but leftovers may be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days; rewarm briefly in a 350-degree oven before serving.

Ingredients:

8 tablespoons (1 stick/113 grams) unsalted butter, softened to cool room temperature (about 65 degrees)

About 1/2 cup (113 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar

About 1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt (may substitute 1 teaspoon table salt), plus more for sprinkling (optional)

1 3/4 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

2 large eggs, cold

About 2 1/4 cups (283 grams) all-purpose flour

About 2 1/2 cups (425 grams) assorted chocolate chips (not chopped chocolate), such as a mix of milk, bittersweet and semisweet

8 1/2 ounces (scant 1 3/4 cups/240 grams) raw walnut pieces or lightly toasted pecan pieces

Steps:

Combine the butter, brown and granulated sugars, vanilla extract, salt, baking powder, baking soda and nutmeg in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on low to moisten, then increase the speed to medium and beat until soft, fluffy and pale, about 8 minutes; halfway through, pause to scrape down the bowl and beater with a flexible spatula. With the mixer running, add the eggs one at a time, letting each incorporate fully before adding the next. Reduce the speed to low, then add the flour all at once. When the flour is incorporated, add the chocolate chips and nuts and keep mixing until the dough is homogeneous.

Divide the dough into 8 equal portions (about 6 ounces/170 grams each) and round each into a smooth ball. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 12 hours before baking; if well protected from air, the dough can be kept in the fridge up to 1 week.

Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. When the oven comes to temperature, arrange up to 4 portions of cold dough on the prepared pans, leaving ample space between them to account for spread. If you like, sprinkle with additional salt to taste.

Bake, 1 sheet at a time, for about 22 minutes, until the cookies are puffed and lightly brown or to an internal temperature of between 175 and 185 degrees. The ideal temperature will vary from person to person; future rounds can be baked more or less to achieve the desired consistency.

Cool the cookies directly on the baking sheet until no warmer than 100 degrees (they should feel lukewarm) before serving. Enjoy warm, or within 12 hours; these cookies taste best when freshly baked.

NOTE: Toast the pecans on a rimmed baking sheet in a 350-degree oven until slightly darkened and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes.

Nutrition | Calories: 200; Total Fat: 12 g; Saturated Fat: 5 g; Cholesterol: 20 mg; Sodium: 130 mg; Carbohydrates: 23 g; Dietary Fiber: 2 g; Sugars: 14 g; Protein: 3 g.

(Adapted from Stella Parks at SeriousEats.com.)

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