Barely two years old, a Rangeley restaurant that values home grown — food and staff  — is already earning awards and diners from near and far for its fare.

The name Forks In The Air Mountain Bistro was inspired by “a friend’s story about his Italian family,” says Michael Kupstas, co-owner of the Rangeley eatery known locally as Forks.

“The grandmother would come to the kids table and yell ‘Forks in the air,’” which meant  food was about to be laid on the table and the children were to make room quickly. “It’s about the social and community side of eating,” adds Kupstas, who is often known simply as “Kup.”

With Forks located in a town that is itself in the air (elevation 1,614 feet) and surrounded by mountain peaks that reach to the sky, Kup found the name irresistible. The bistro’s logo is a single giant fork pointing straight up into the air.

The Rangeley area has been a part of Kup’s life for a long as he can remember. His father was a sporting goods salesman who was “always looking for the newest and greatest in New England.” He found what he was looking for in Rangeley, and Kup, who “retired from the food business” three years ago, has not missed a summer in Rangeley since he was 6 years old.

Kup and his brother, Steve, opened Forks In The Air on July 1, 2013, and it has been a staple in the Rangeley community since. From June through September, and during school vacations, it is open for dinner seven days a week. Otherwise, it is open five days a week, Thursday through Monday, beginning at 4 p.m.  It’s a big part of “our commitment to our staff, and to the town,” says Kup, “that we’ll be open year-round.”

A significant percentage of Forks’ staff is home-grown. For example, chef Payson Farrar, who has lived all over New England, has come home to Maine to raise his family, and sous chef Stone Walton was born and raised in Rangeley.

Karen Seaman, general manager and bartender who, according to Kup, “has without a doubt run the best restaurants in this area,” is a local. “As tourists,” he adds, “we would seek out the restaurants that were run by Karen.”

The employees, many of whom have their own fan base, are not the only things home-grown about Forks. “We source locally whenever we can,” says Farrar about the food, including, Kup adds, “cheeses from Pineland Farms in New Gloucester and Maine seafood, (because) it’s the right thing to do.”

When asked about their most popular dishes, Farrar responds, “That’s pretty tough.” He mentions two: The pan-seared north Atlantic scallops and the baked Atlantic haddock.

The pan-seared scallops are prepared with roasted corn, and come with a quinoa salad that includes cucumber, red onion and fresh herbs, and is topped with a fresh cilantro and lime melon sauce. Cooking scallops, says Kup, “is one thing we do unbelievably well.”

The baked haddock, says Walton, “is definitely a staple.” According to Farrar, “The haddock is topped with pesto, baked in white wine and served over locally grown, roasted, tricolor new potatoes, caramelized onions, fire-roasted tomatoes and spinach in a light saffron broth.” Adds Kup, “The pesto and saffron make it really bright in flavor.”

Each dish served at Forks is unique, and accompaniments are created specifically to compliment menu items.

“Chef Payson has an unbelievable creative knack,” states Kup. Items that start as specials, such as the haddock, are often brought back as menu standards due to popular demand.

Forks’ appetizers, such as the fried green tomatoes served with a house buttermilk dressing, caramelized onions and sunflower seeds, make Forks “a little bit more of a dining adventure,” says Kup.

“Fried green tomatoes . . . who does that?” he asks rhetorically. “Payson does that!”

The menu is generously loaded with small-plate offerings — like the fried green tomatoes — “that can be a meal,” says Kup, and includes vegan dishes as well as popular grilled flatbreads.

Walton’s favorite dish to prepare is the lamb. He particularly loves the colors: the orange potato au gratin, the roasted zucchini and summer squash, the three meaty lollipops of marinated and grilled lamb, and the blueberry gremolata on top. “It’s really bright,” he says. Kup calls it “an atypical explosion of flavors.”

As for dessert, says Farrar, “our most popular, without a doubt, is bread pudding with chocolate and white chocolate chips, served with fresh whipped cream.” Forks’ staff always tries to include a cobbler on the dessert menu, made with seasonal berries. But then there’s also the “ginger bread served with macerated blueberries and Chantilly cream,” adds Walton.

“I’m excited for the fall/winter menu,” says Farrar. “The new menu will be out as soon as the frost hits (and will feature) comfy, hearty meals such as pumpkin risotto with scallops,” says Kup, as well as a crispy quail served with a cornbread and jalapeno stuffing; braised short ribs served with a blue cheese mashed potato, roasted carrots and parsnips with a horseradish cream sauce; and lamb that will likely be served with a creamy cheese polenta.

Forks also offers 17 wines by the glass, and more than 50 by the bottle. “We’re able to cover the palate,” says Kup, adding, “There are very few things I like as much as helping someone choose a wine.”

Forks’ craft beer menu features brews that include the likes of Allagash, Tumbledown and Sebago in bottles, as well as Lewiston’s own Baxter on tap.

“All of our employees are big foodies and very engaging with our dinner guests,” says Kup proudly, adding: “We were named one of the best new restaurants for 2015 by Downeast Magazine . . . one of 32 in the state.”

In a 2014 contest sponsored by the local Chamber of Commerce, Forks also won awards for both its bratwurst and strudel. The challenge,” says Kup, will be “doing it again.”

“We are trying to bring an elevated dining experience to the mountains,” says Kup, so “people will go out of their way to come here.” Some people, adds Walton, “come from three or four hours away” just for the Forks experience.

Forks in the Air mussels

1 pound mussels, cleaned and debearded

1 ounce of tomatoes, diced

1 ounce of Spanish onions, diced

2 ounces roasted garlic butter

1/2 ounce smoked almonds, finely chopped

6 ounces Allagash White beer

1 ounce lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

Place all ingredients into a large saute pan and cover. Steam over high heat, tossing occasionally, just until mussels open. DO NOT OVERCOOK. Serve with grilled bread.

Grilled flatbread with caramelized onions

6 ounces pizza dough, rolled out to 1/4-inch thickness in an oblong shape

1 ounce olive oil

2 ounces pizza sauce

2 ounces shredded mozzarella

1 ounce Pineland Farms feta crumbles

2 ounces caramelized onions

1 ounce balsamic glaze

1/2 ounce arugula

Preheat grill to high. Brush rolled out pizza dough with oil. Place on grill and cook until dough begins to slightly bubble (30 seconds to a minute). Flip dough and cook the other side for the same amount of time. Place on a flat pan. Spread pizza sauce in an even layer, leaving 1/2 inch of crust at the edges. Sprinkle on shredded mozzarella and feta cheese in an even layer. Top with caramelized onions.

Bake in the oven at 425 degrees until cheese starts to brown around the edges, about 6-8 minutes. Top with an even layer of arugula and drizzle with balsamic glaze. Cut flatbread into 6 pieces (one cut lengthwise down the center, and two cuts across). Serve immediately.

Forks in the Air charred romaine

(Serves 1)

1 half romaine head (split lengthwise)

Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup (about 2 ounces) chopped tomatoes

1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) chopped red onion

1/2 ounce shaved parmesan cheese

2 ounces lemon vinaigrette (see below)

Drizzle the olive oil on the cut-side of the romaine. Place on grill (high heat), cut-side up, for approximately 60 to 90 seconds or until charred. Flip for another 60 to 90 or so seconds. Remove and place on salad plate.

Top with tomato, red onion and shaved parmesan. Drizzle with lemon vinaigrette.

Lemon vinaigrette

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon dijon mustard

1 1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon fresh pepper

Combine all ingredients and shake to incorporate.

Copy the Story Link